Hi everyone, Barnaby here.
We’ve been saying for a while that our land rover conversion kits are genuinely bolt-in, plug-in systems, simple enough that anyone with a decent workshop can fit one. So, this time, we decided to prove it properly.
The challenge: take a prepared Defender 90 (engine, gearbox, and transfer box already out) and turn it fully electric in about four hours. No shortcuts, no pre-assembly, just our kit, our team, and a stopwatch.
Spoiler alert: we did it, and this was conversion number 51!
Why We Built It This Way
Four years ago, I started all this in my garage: Hyper9 motor, adapter plate, old Tesla batteries, the lot. That setup worked brilliantly; we’ve got about twenty of those cars still running, and they’ve been faultless. However, the market moved on. People now expect OEM-grade systems: more power, faster charging, neater installs. So we evolved, too.
Today’s system is built around a 350 V nominal architecture, which means CCS rapid charging; you can take the 55 kWh battery pack from empty to 80% in about 20 minutes. Perfect for that one long trip you actually take in a Land Rover over a year.
The whole idea is completeness: every wire, bracket, and fitting is pre-engineered so that when a kit lands in the US, Canada, or South Africa, someone who’s never done a conversion before can confidently bolt it in.
The System Breakdown
Up Front: Cooling Pack
A large radiator cools the motor, and a smaller one behind cools the battery pack. All pipework, pumps, and fans are pre-installed. Mount it, plug the loom in, and that’s it. Everything’s dust- and water-resistant, just like the Land Rover itself.
The Heart: Tesla Model 3 Motor
Roughly 280 horsepower, replacing engine, gearbox, and transfer box in one neat unit.
Our system is about 100 kg lighter than the original drivetrain. The motor is much lighter than a gearbox, so even with batteries, the overall weight drops.
We refurbish every motor here. Elon won’t sell them new, so they come from crashed cars. We split them, fit new gear sets, new bearings, a new LSD (limited-slip differential) (because open diffs and instant torque don’t mix), then sandblast everything so it looks proper.
Battery: Fellten UBP 55 kWh or 110 kWh
We used to build our own boxes. Then I realised there’s no point in reinventing the wheel when Fellten specialises in it. They supply sealed, software-ready grey boxes; we mount them, wire the HV lines, and the car’s halfway done.
Ancillaries & Controls
Lose the old engine and gearbox, and you also lose power steering, brake vacuum, and air-con. Our kit replaces all of that with electric units, already wired in: some 12 V, some HV, depending on the component.
You even get an electric brake vacuum pump, since the old mechanical one lived on the gearbox. Now it’s integrated into the disc system, controlled from the same module as the drive selector.
Dash? Original binnacle with new internals.
Pedal? OEM-grade accelerator mapped perfectly to the motor.
Everything plugs into the original bolt holes, and it’s fully reversible if you ever change your mind.
The Four-Hour Challenge
Hour 1
Main 12 V loom installed. The framework is going underneath. I’m up top fitting the clocks and control board, still using the original ignition key.
Hour 2
Battery time! The 320 kg Fellten pack gets lowered in under our gantry. (You can use a strong engine crane if you haven’t got one of those beams.)
Auxiliaries next, brake vacuum, air-con compressor, power-steering pump, followed by the front radiator pack.
Hour 3
Lift the motor up on the gearbox jack, into the old transfer-box space. Wiring connected underneath, prop-shafts on.
Hour 4 (ish)
Tighten the last bolts, flick the key, select Drive… and it moves quietly, instantly, and perfectly!
It still feels like a Defender should: a bit rattly, a bit wobbly, only now it’s silent and fast.
Technical Highlights
For those wanting quick facts, here are the core specifications of our system.
- Weight: ~100 kg lighter than the original
- Regen: App-controlled (0 / 50 / 100%)
- Eco Mode: Softer throttle map
- Compatibility: Defender 90 / 110 / 130 / Series / Range Rover Classic
- Reversible: Bolts into factory mounts, water- and dust-sealed
Left-hand drive? No problem. We mirror the few parts that need it. Thinking of a lifted suspension? It works, but keep prop-shaft angles sensible unless you like highway vibrations.
For a deeper dive into the conversion process for your model, visit our Land Rover conversion.
Real-World Builds
This very Defender 90 is heading to Guernsey as a delivery vehicle for a Chinese restaurant, an ideal place for an EV when “range anxiety” isn’t a thing.
Next up, something wild: a 1952 Series I with 110 kWh going London → London the long way, through Asia, Singapore, Australia, New Zealand, the US, then back to Europe. Big documentary incoming.
The Numbers
- Standard system: ≈ £60,000 (UK) / $87,000 (US kit in a crate)
- Long-range system: ≈ £85,000 (UK) / $122,000 (US)
Vehicle not included. In England, our installation cost roughly matches the kit price because, as you’ve seen, it’s quick. But most buyers can self-install with normal workshop tools. For full pricing details and optional upgrades, see our pricing page.
Ownership & Support
No yearly servicing needed from us, just the usual brake and suspension checks with any competent mechanic. Software updates happen over the internet. Everything else just works.
Why We Stick to Land Rovers
We do Defenders, Series cars, and Range Rover Classics. We’ve learned every bracket, bolt, and quirk by trial and error over 51 builds.
Other companies may claim they can “do a Defender” because they’ve watched our videos. It’s a bit different when you’re actually doing it.
So there you have it, from a stripped chassis to a fully electric Defender in roughly four hours.
If you want to know more, check out our Instagram and YouTube for more builds, or just give me a call if you’ve got questions.
Cheers,
Barnaby